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Closerie des Lilas Bar

2013-03-20

bar-closerie-des-lilas-1.jpgTourists, as well as the Parisians, in the evenings or lazy afternoons look for the typical, the most Parisian, the most charming and nicest coffee places, restaurants and bars. The criteria are demanding, all tourists wish the place to be typically Parisian and not touristic, to find there French customers, an interesting, cozy and typically French decoration, so that the drink and food menu is rich, original and at the same time classical, the stuff is welcoming, funny, efficient and smiling, the prices are not too high, the meals and drinks are nicely arranged and the place is close to the metro station.bar-closerie-des-lilas-2.jpg

You can find all these criteria and even with a bonus of history, original interior, live piano music, perfect and friendly service, located out of the tourist axe and at the same time just couple of minutes walk from the Luxembourg garden, by the metro station Port-Royal in the coffee-bar Closerie des Lilas. Closerie des Lilas is a restaurant, coffee place and a bar and at its entrance there is a stand with the sale of fresh oysters.

On each table you will notice a small metal plate with the names of historical personnalities or celebrities who were sitting at that very table. At "our" table were sipping their drinks André Breton, Strindberg, or Max Jacob, at the neighbouring table couple years ago was sitting Ernest Hemingway.

At the end of the 19th century Closerie des Lilas was the first coffee place that contributed to the reputation of the Montparnasse quartbar-closerie-des-lilas-3.jpger. The place got famous thanks to its proximity with the well-known Parisian ball Bullier. Aristocracy, artists, dancers, anonymous persons were coming to dance in the ball in the lilas garden and before and after the ball Closerie des Lilas was welcoming all the clients. Emil Zola brought here his friend Paul Cézanne, Paul Fort used to play the chess with Lenine on the terrasse. In 1922 an argument between Tristan Tzara and André Breton ended the dadaism period in Paris. Closerie des Lilas is one of the coffee places which are part of the Parisian history, which formed its personnalities and the present charm of which is based on their return to the past. The place exists from 1847 and the personnalities such as Aragon, Modigliani, Oscar Wilde, or Ezra Pound are a part of its memories.

At the bar desk there is a "pot" (as the French call a moment with a drink shared by the colleagues from work) of a group of discussing colleagues or friends, the waitor friendly taps his clients on the shoulder. He does not even move an eyebrow wbar-closerie-des-lilas-4.jpghen someone breaks the glass in thousand pieces, without asking he brings us a big jar with water, by moments he makes an eye contact from a distance to check if everything is going fine, when hesitating among different flavours of Mojito drinks he recommends to stay with the classics, he continuously renews the bowl with olives. The bowl with the raddish and the salami rolls is artistically arranged, along the walls you notice the decoration of the champagne bottles in all sizes (Magnum 1,5 litres, Jéroboam 3 litres, Mathusalem 6 litres, Salmanazar 8 litres, Balthazar 12 litres, Nabuchodonozor 15 litres, Primat 27 litres to Melchisédech 30 litres).

A moment of hesitation and then a second and you are in the swing door, which takes you to the Parisian atmosphere. And the time of hesitation is gone.

Address: 171 Bld Montparnasse, 75006 Paris. Metro: Line RER B Port Royal

Maria Dopjerova-Danthine, Paristep

Source of information about the history: http://www.closeriedeslilas.fr/

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